Royal Enfield Coastal Trail – Riding along the western coast from Mumbai to Kanyakumari

Day 1 – Navi Mumbai to Shrivardhan

After a sumptuous breakfast on Day 1 followed by a briefing on that day's route by the lead rider Arjay Pramanik, we saddled our bikes and headed out.

As I said, my steed was the Himalayan, a Sleet edition adorned with grey camouflage paint scheme and equipped with GMA (Genuine motorcycle accessory) from Royal Enfield. The latter includes a pair of 26-litres aluminum panniers which are not just useful but also lend a touring appeal. Then there is the cross-brace handlebar which is slightly wider than the stock unit and comes with additional bar-end weights. Lastly, the larger engine guards ensure better safety.

We kickstarted the ride from Navi Mumbai and faced heavy traffic until Panvel. However, we were cruising at 60-70kmph after entering Alibaug. After two hours of steady riding, we caught our first sight of the glistening Arabian sea around a corner which accompanied us until the lunch stop in Kashid. The route now comprised of a smooth strip of tarmac through Murud and Mandad villages. We reached Kiva Shell beach resort in Shrivardhan just in time to view a glorious sunset.

Day 2 – Shrivardhan to Ganpatipule

The second day had something special on offer – three ferry crossings and arduous off-roading. I was excited about the latter for the challenging terrain would give me an opportunity to test the Himalayan’s mettle. The first ferry crossing was from Harihareshwar to Vesvi and fortunately, we made it to the first ferry of the day and witnessed the sunrise while sailing along the creek.  

Now, it was time to make our way through the demanding trail of Velas village which was full of rocks, sand and loose gravel. All I had to do was stand on the pegs, grab the tank between my knees and the Himalayan seamlessly glided over rocks and small craters with its suspension gobbling up everything with ease. A brief tea break to renew our energy levels and we were back on our saddles, continuing the good fight between our motorcycles and that tricky trail. We reached Nakshatra Beach Resort by dusk, where my sea-facing balcony was the best place for sipping coffee.

Day 3 and 4 – Ganpatipule to Kunkeshwar to Agonda

Our hosts had some surprises for us on day 3.

The short 130kms ride to Kunkeshwar took us through Sindhdurg district where the enormous Vijaydurg Fort made for a perfect setting for the Himalayan’s photo session. Surrounded by sea on three sides, this fort was once Shivaji Maharaj’s naval base. After satisfying the shutterbug within us, it was time to feed our growling tummies and there came the first surprise. Royal Enfield had arranged a buffet of traditional local cuisine at Mithmumbari beach in Devgad. We gorged on the delicious food washed it down with a refreshing glass of Solkadhi - a popular Konkan drink. Delighted, we continued to Kunkeshwar beach where, our second surprise, a bonfire and a buffet awaited us.

The excitement was profound on day 4 as we entered Goa! The roads now were slick, running through forests, with sweeping corners and hairpin bends. Here, although the Himalayan is heavy, it felt effortless while tipping into corners. Lunch for day 4 was planned at the Royal Enfield Garage Café which houses a cafeteria, RE dealership and a museum, all in one place. After gawking at various age-old Royal Enfield motorcycles and satiating our hunger, we rode for 80kms to H2O beach resort. Day 5 was spent here, sprawled on the white sands, for it was a rest day.

Day 6 and 7 – Agonda to Gokarna to Mangalore

Day 6 was smooth and uneventful sailing through the broad highways of Karnataka. On the expressway, the Himalayan cruised seamlessly at 80kmph and thanks to good ergonomics, the ride wasn’t tiring. However, above the 80kmph mark, vibrations crept in through the handlebar, fuel tank and foot pegs and the motorcycle felt out of breath post 100kmph. We reached Gokarna early in the afternoon which gave us an opportunity to explore the virgin beaches and temples around the place. 

Meanwhile, the long highway ride of day 6 had already taken a toll on our excitement, and day 7 had something similar on offer. After 80km of monotonous highway riding, we reached Murudeshwar where we paid our respects to the enormous statue of lord Shiva. Our spirits were somewhat revived when we rode through Murudeshwar beach, splashing water while cutting through the waves. 

Day 8 and 9 – Mangalore to Kannur to Kochi

On day 8, our lead rider Arjay warned us about the not-so-kind road manners of Kerala motorists. True to his predictions, we experienced frequent close calls once we entered Kerala. The exhaustion brought on by this ordeal was short-lived though. Riding through the sandy roads near beaches such as Mappila, the fatigue turned into a serene calm as the blue sea accompanied us along the way. The 145km ride ended at the opulent Mascot beach resort in Kannur where we rested in the pool.

Day 9 was a demanding 270km long ride from Kannur to Kochi including a ferry crossing to reach our destination. We started our ride early in the morning.  We still had to ride cautiously to avoid any fracas with local motorists, but, for once, we didn't chafe at the delay. It actually allowed us to soak up the beauty of the glittering backwaters of Kerala, with coconut palms lined along the banks waving seductively in the breeze. We reached Kochi by afternoon but before heading to our resort, we stopped for lunch at the popular Lilliput multi-cuisine restaurant which is known for its sea food. While I stuck to my vegetarian cuisine, my ride mates who had sea food were all praises.  Before it was dark, we reached the Trident hotel which was as opulent as a king’s palace.

Day 10 and 11 – Kochi to Varkala to Kanyakumari

The ride from Kochi to Varkala, which spanned across 140km, was an awe-inspiring one with immaculate churches juxtaposed alongside the splendid backwaters and backroads of Kerala. The most prominent among these churches was the St. Andrew’s Basilica in Alappuzha district. The marvelous architecture served as a beautiful picture backdrop for the Himalayan. This day was full of stops as the backwaters of Kollam and the pristine Alleppey beach beckoned for photo sessions. 

However, in Varkala, we uncovered one of the real gems of Kerala. Although the place has many sacred tourist attractions, such as the 2000-year-old Vishnu temple, it was the 50-meter high cliff overlooking Varkala beach which proved to be a true marvel. The long cliff is lined with shops and restaurants which offer the best of local cuisine. At night, the panorama of lights at the edge of the cliff is bewitching. 

The last briefing on day 11 made us realise that the trip was about to end and all too soon, we will be heading back to our entangled lives in the urban jungle. So, throughout the 140kms route from Varkala to Kanyakumari, we rode slow and easy to enjoy every moment to its fullest. Lost in the beauty of the journey, we reached Kanyakumari late afternoon. The dinner and closing ceremony called for a lot of selfies, group photos and recalling the fun-filled moments through the ride. In all, the Royal Enfield Coastal Trail 2019 culminating on a good note. 

The Bike:

The Royal Enfield Himalayan is the most affordable adventure tourer in the Indian market. It is meant to be a good companion on long rides and will have your back through challenging terrain. After riding it for 11 long days, it undoubtedly impressed me. 

The long travel front suspension and soft sprung rear shocks ensure effortless gliding over rocky and undulated patches at high speeds. However, going slow over bumps evokes a strong jolt from the rear. Owing to the tall handlebar and centre-set footpegs, the ergonomics are comfortable whether you are on the pegs or in the saddle.

The Himalayan has a good low-end punch which proved helpful around mountain roads and while off roading. It feels eager upto 100kmph, but beyond that the engine feels strained. The five-speed gearbox is clunky and gear shifting demands effort most of the times. The front brake offers good bite but the rear brake was lacking in it considerably. The dual-purpose Ceat tyres lent a good amount of grip across varied road conditions.