Mojo Desert Trail Part 2: Gujarat diaries

Day 5: Sanchore to Bhuj

While the first leg of Mahindra Mojo Desert Trail through Rajasthan has us experience sand and the desert, there was a transition as soon as we crossed into Gujarat. The highways were now bordered with vegetation and there weren’t as many animals to scare me out of my wits by jumping into my path.

The 350km ride on Day 5 took us from Sanchore to Bhuj through several underdeveloped villages. Every time we stopped, the bikes were swarmed by curious bystanders and we were bombarded with questions. The customary ‘kitna deti hai?’ (How fuel efficient is it?) took a backseat in favour of ‘kaha se aaye ho?' (Where have you come from?). As Harpreet recounted later, he had to politely ask one such villager to let him finish with nature’s call before answering any more of his questions.

All this while, we kept passing stern-looking BSF soldiers in army trucks and jeeps who would break into friendly smiles as soon as we waved at them. Day 5 also gave us our last chance to ride on sand dunes, and our first taste of the salt flats.

Day 6: Bhuj to Rann of Kutch

After a light breakfast, we headed to the Prag Mahal palace. Built in 1879, this structure was damaged during the 2001 earthquake, though several sections have now been restored and serve as museums. The opulent halls of the Prag Mahal palace were used in the shoot of Lagaan and a few other movies, making it a must visit for Bollywood buffs. 

From here we headed to Kalo Dungar, the tallest hill in Kutch. Rising 425 metres above sea level, Kalo Dungar offers a panoramic view of the Rann of Kutch up to the point where it meets the ocean. Right from debunked fables about its magnetic properties to priests who have been feeding wild jackals for the last 400 years, Kala Dungar has the right ingredients to keep it buzzing with tourists.

In our attempt to catch the sunset, we decided to ditch lunch and head straight for the Rann of Kutch. However, a problem with permissions at the entry gate held us up for over 20 minutes, which meant that we could only catch a fleeting glimpse of the sun disappearing over the horizon. We set up our base in Dhordo for the night.

Day 7: Rann of Kutch to Koteshwar

A few of us decided to get up early the next day to catch the sunrise. However when we reached the salt flats early next morning, a thick blanket of fog decided to play spoilsport. This didn’t stop us from going all out on the salt flats and toying around with the Mojo. Almost at zero height from sea level, the Rann of Kutch is vast endless expanse of marsh land. While some the patches were still wet, the rest was a realm of sand and dried salt which crunched under your feet. We returned to our camps to find most of our fellow riders still asleep. As the day’s ride was just 220km long, everything was moving at a glacial pace.

Our first pit stop for the day was at the Hajipir Dargah in Kutch, an 800-year-old shrine built over the grave of Pir Haji Ali Akbar. A sanctum which goes beyond the borders of religious differences, the Hajipir Dargah is revered by Hindus and Muslims alike.

From here we moved on to the Mata no Madh, a town which houses the shrine of Ashapura goddess. Known to grant wishes of her devotees, this deity attracts hoards of pilgrims during Navratri festival, many of who travel on foot as a token of their devotion.

While our lunch was arranged at the temple, Vishal, Harpreet and I roamed around the streets trying out local delicacies like the dabeli, pani puri and jalebi. From here we headed towards Lakhpat.

Enclosed within 7km of fort walls erected in 1801,Lakhpat is a ghost town with a fascinating past. Back in its day, Lakhpat was one of the important ports on the West coast.However in 1819, an earthquake altered the flow of the Indus river causing a radical change in Lakhpat’s physical and economic landscape. The thriving port was slowly abandoned and the town that once brimmed with prosperity stands almost uninhabited today.A walk through the ruins paints a beautiful yet sad picture of how life must have been in Lakhpat when it was famed to thrive with a daily revenue in excess of one lakh koris (which gave the town its name).

Lakhpat is a highly sensitive area in terms of national security, and given a pair of powerful binoculars you could have a look at the white pillars which mark the country’s border. BSF soldiers regularly patrol these areas keeping an eye out for intruders. Standing on the edge of the fort walls and staring across the marshy land, you can’t help but be amazed by the difficult lives of the BSF soldiers and the sacrifices they make to keep us safe. 

While the main tourist attractions in Gujarat overflow with waves of visitors from all over the country, quaint towns like Koteshwar appeal to those seeking a more peaceful experience.After traveling over dusty expanses for seven days, this is the first time we caught a glimpse of the calm sea sparkling under the moonlight.

Day 8: Koteshwar to Mandvi

We woke up early on Day 8 and headed to seek blessings at the Lord Shiva temple, which gave Koteshwar its name. Next to the temple is another one of BSF’s camps and a jetty. Apart from serving the local folks, the jetty also acts as a yard for confiscated Pakistani boats.

Koteshwar happens to be one of the westernmost limits of the country and every now and then a Pakistani boat drifts over the border, never to return home. Looking at the dilapidated boats, I couldn’t help but imagine the plight of the fishermen who lost their source of livelihood just because of a silly navigational error. 

While Koteshwar had given us a small glimpse of the sea, we were eagerly looking forward to drop anchor in Mandvi, which boasted of one of the most serene beaches in Gujarat. The 170km ride got over in no time and we had the entire afternoon to rest. In the evening we left for the beach to see the sunset. 

There are no restrictions on taking your vehicle to the beach, and a few of us jumped at this opportunity to get a taste of beach riding. I knew this was going to be fun as soon as the rear started to fishtail when I whacked open the throttle. With the rear tyre dancing, the boredom of riding on arrow straight highways vanished in a jiffy. After spending a few hours goofing around, we retraced our steps to the hotel.

Day 9: Mandvi to Ahmedabad

Here is the thing with group rides – they never start on time. Irrespective of how many riders are a part of the group, you will always be behind schedule. Today was an exception though. Being the last day of the Desert Trail, a few of the riders had to catch evening flights back home. And with the route involving 400km of riding, we had our motorcycle engines warming up on the dot.

While we didn’t have designated pit stops en route, there were a few interesting sights worthy of a halt. The windmill farms and the sight of chakkada – a hybrid of a Royal Enfield bike and trailer, never failed to amaze me. While some might consider them death traps, the chakkada is part and parcel of village life.

Despite the last day’s ride being uneventful, I could feel disappointment come over me as we kept getting closer to Ahmendabad. Nevertheless, by the end of it, I was left with the satisfaction of knowing that I had experienced something truly amazing. No matter how exciting Rajasthan and Gujarat might seem through pictures, you have to experience all of this firsthand to fully comprehend their beauty.

The ride which had started with ‘Born to be Wild’ was now ending with me humming ‘Musafir hoon yaaron’.I envy musicians. They have the power to make an impression on you, to control your thoughts and make you revisit moments. But then I looked down at the trip meter, just shy of 2,700km. Well, an auto journalist’s life isn’t that bad, either.

 

About the Mahindra Mojo Trails:

The Mojo Desert Trail was the last of the four chapters Mahindra had organised this year, the other three being Forest Trail, Mountain Trail and Coastal Trail. Apart from giving a glimpse of what the country has to offer, these Trails also aim at making enthusiasts aware of what the motorcycle is capable of. Anyone can be a part of these Trails, even if you don’t own a Mojo you can opt for a company motorcycle for an additional amount.Next year Mahindra is planning to add two more trails to the calendar, the North-West Trail and the Island Trail.